Global Fashion Collective Fall/Winter 2023
photographed by Katie Vita, written by Nicole Abriam
Rice & Spice attended Global Fashion Collective II: Contemporary and III: Evening Wear shows on February 12. The Evening Wear runway showcased a diverse range of couture ranging from statement embellished gowns to “Lolita” style-inspired dresses starting from 6:30 PM. Dazzling the bleak walls of City Point in Downtown Brooklyn were the stunning gowns and garments of international designers Lisa Ju, Hengki Kawilarang, Victoria Maiden, and Taussy Daniels. Amongst the audience were beautifully styled influencers, photographers, journalists, and fashion moguls, including Nadia Jagessar, a TV personality who appeared on the web series Indian Matchmaking.
The show started with Lisa Ju’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection “Renceum Réjouissances” (translated roughly to “sparkling festivities”), a collection of intricate couture gowns inspired by Lisa Ju’s Indonesian background, as well as her appreciation for French couture. Her gowns consisted of corsets and autumnal colors-- copper, beige, natural, blue-- and A-line silhouettes, hugging and highlighting curves, reminiscent of French designer Thierry Mugler. Using a traditional fabric from Indonesia known as batik priangan, Lisa created intricate designs using fabric manipulation techniques and hand embroidering embellishments to create a luscious collection.
“I’m blessed to be influenced by a lot of different points of view growing up in Indonesia, which has so many different cultures, so many diverse textiles, crafts, arts, and yet a combination of original indigenous tradition and multiple modern foreign influences — that shaped me as a designer,” Ju said.
The next collection on the runway transported the audience to a different era. Victorian Maiden is a Japanese-based brand that offers a “coquettish Victorian style for modern women who value beauty and intelligence”, as it outlines in its concept on its website. With the models strutting down the runway wearing classic florals, velvet and silk fabrics, and beautiful headpieces to tie the looks, Victorian Maiden paid homage to the style and elegance of the Victorian woman-- with just a touch of modernism.
Victorian Maiden popularized the “Lolita fashion," a subculture of fashion that’s trendy in Japan and prominent for its “cute” and “dainty” style. Heavily inspired by women’s fashion from the Victorian and Rococo eras, Lolita fashion consists of corsets and petticoats by the knee, A-line silhouettes, and a bonnet or bow to complete the outfit-- similar to the collection. It’s antiquated, yet contemporary.
After Maiden, Taússy Daniels’ collection glided down the runway with bold, statement, and wearable art that’s unique to the eye. Daniels is a prominent high-fashion couture Mozambique designer and an audacious artist. Her designs were eclectic and eye-catching, featuring gowns flourishing with eccentric silhouettes and detailed embellishments-- the show was an art installation in the form of sweeping fabric and slow walks across the runway.
And last but not least was Hengki Kawilarang, a designer from Indonesia who expressed his love and passion for his cultural background through his evening collection “Srivijaya.” Dark fall colors and headpieces reminiscent of traditional Southeast Asian wear filled the visual show. With broad shoulders, reflective fabric, and feminine silhouettes, Kawilarang’s collection paid homage to strong women. Every detail of their glamorous designs was made for women to channel their inner diva.
The Evening Wear show concluded Global Fashion Collective, showcasing a diverse range of designers hailing from across the world on an internationally cultural journey of fashion.
Global Fashion Collective II (Contemporary)
Global Fashion Collective III (Evening Wear)
Backstage