From East to West: The Flavors of Asia Fashion Collection FW22
photographed by Evelyn Rude and Kate Hada on Feb. 15
written by Evelyn Rude
From the spicy, colorful designs of Dokka Vivid to the sharp, industrial-oriented designs of Glenda Garcia’s, the ninth annual show of Asia Fashion Collection at Spring Studios was yet another hit with the six showcased designers for Fall/Winter 2022.
Every year, Asia Fashion Collection chooses six East and Southeast Asian designers to showcase their collection in Tokyo and New York. For the Fall/Winter 2022 season, Asia Fashion Collection chose three Japanese designers, one Korean designer, one Tawainese designer, and one New York-based Indonesian designer. From Japan, COCOTONO by Kotono Fukazawa, Yuuna Ichikawa, and DOKKA vivid. From Korea, SUNG JU by Sung Ju Lee. Representing Taiwan, the duo team, Yu Nung (Jerry) Hsieh and Ming Jo (Cynthia) Hsieh, of Woo Lee X. Lastly, New York City-based Indonesia-raised Glenda Garcia.
The night started with the Japanese labels, all founded by female designers. COCOTONO’s menswear collection involved interesting props with her playful and colorful designs. Exemplars of her innovative pairings include a blue-and-red melted grid set worn by Wilhemina model Jace Cameron, where he held a prop ice cream cone. Another was a black-and-white star-checkered design with red accents that was accessorized with an empty Jack Daniel’s bottle.
Moving on to a darker and more avant-garde concept, Yuuna Ichikawa had a lovely elegant artistic womenswear collection. She used leather, materials resembling chiffon and mesh, and other shape-building materials in her work. She was not afraid to employ large shapes and sizes with her designs - one could notice that with look 10, a puffy multi-layered black and cream dress. Look 8 worn by Genetics Management model Floriane was another eye-catching design, consisting of an oversized uniquely-shaped biker jacket with a red midi dress.
Duo designers Nodoka Sugaucih and Akiho Ka of DOKKA vivid represented their culture through bright designs. With reds and warmer colors, the designs of DOKKA vivid’s resembled traditional paper lanterns. The dress silhouettes consisted of bouffant and tent shapes, paired with amazing accessories. Although all of their designs were eye-catching, one particular design worn by Wilhemina model Pure really showcased the flavorful looks of the fashion label. The head accessory had multi-colored pom-poms with two red tassels on the side of the model’s head, reminding one of a lantern. The dress had a fun silhouette, consisting of ruffled sleeved shoulders with two different patterned rose fabrics and a slanted fabric cut across the model’s legs. The look is finished with rose-patterned socks and black loafers, with a traditional fan in hand.
Models in Dokka Vivid backstage photographed by Evelyn Rude
Korean designer SUNG JU’s designs exuded unconventional, through puffer jackets with a large dosage of bizarre cuts and out-of-the-box headpieces. From head to toe, the designs were almost all puffer material, complemented with youthful touches. One look was a bright reddish-pink puffer jacket with sharp flaps. The bottoms were of a fluffy magenta pink material, down to the shoes. The models definitely looked comfortable in these pieces, and it was a refreshing experience to photograph and experience both backstage and on the runway.
Cool and hip, Woo Lee X's designs were tasteful, to say the least. The Taiwanese male and female designer team mixed patterns, creating pieces with personality that are favorable to young customers. Blazers, sheer tops, and flowy skirts appeared throughout, crafted out of a fusion of street art and multi-patterned fabrics. Even the models carried a certain kind of coolness as they walked down the runway. A favorite look would be the women’s purple blazer dress set worn by EMG model Liliya Kalkamnova. The blazer had a mixture of floral and graffiti patterns tied by a black belt that said "Emergency" on it. Under the blazer was a sheer layered purple dress with similar graffiti-like art, but of figures of women and hearts.
EMG model Liliya Kalkamnova backstage in Woo Lee X photographed by Evelyn Rude
Models Liliya Kalkamnova and Floriane pose together backstage dressed in Yuuna Ichikawa, photographed by Evelyn Rude
Lastly, New York-based designer Glenda Garcia's capsule collection "On the Job" focused on the working class. Her purpose for the collection was to incorporate fashionable but wearable workwear that people can concentrate and focus on while on the job. The designs consisted of utility belts, leather, and neutral colors suitable in the work environment, outlined by sharp, geometric silhouettes - industrial and chic. For people who enjoy constructed pieces, Glenda Garcia’s would be perfect. A favorite look would be the army green trench coat with a unique shoulder design, worn by The Management NYC model Auriélie Wulff.
This year’s show was viewed remotely by five of the six designers. Only Garcia was able to be backstage for her collection. The designers viewed their show on the NYFW live streaming of it and had an enjoyable experience. In a Zoom meeting right after the show, they all said that they hope to be able to attend a show in New York sometime soon. The Japanese designers even bought American snacks and munched on them while viewing the show to feel like they are in the United States. Next season, the designers will hopefully be able to attend the tenth annual AFC show at Spring Studios and experience the full vibrancy of their work in person.
Model Noma Han poses backstage dressed in Woo Lee X, photographed by Evelyn Rude
Glenda Garcia backstage photographed by Evelyn Rude
Model Liliya Kalkamnova in Woo Lee X on the runway photographed by Kate Hada
Wilhemina model Pure in Dokka Vivid photographed by Kate Hada
Guests await for the show to begin, photographed by Kate Hada
Guest Lucy Jones photographed by Kate Hada
Model Pure in Glenda Garcia photographed by Kate Hada
AFC on the runway, photographed by Kate Hada
AFC backstage, photographed by Evelyn Rude